More About MilkCoat™

Our MilkCoat™ is one of the most durable finishes we have in our collection. There are so many fabulous features and fun facts about this product that we decided to split it all up into two separate blog posts.

You can catch up on our introductory post here.

There’s still much more to learn about our MilkCoat™, so sit back and enjoy these extra tidbits!

MilkCoat™ Comes In 3 Different Sheens

In our old collection, we had one water-based topcoat (Tough Coat) that came in one sheen (matte). When we relaunched our new product line, we wanted to make sure you had “all the options” for your refinishing projects!

All 3 of our sheens are suitable for heavy-use surfaces like kitchens, bathrooms and tabletops. When it comes to the durability of each particular sheen, however, there are some nuances.

Let’s dive into the particulars of our 3 options so you know which one is best for your upcoming MilkPaint™ project!

Matte / No Shine

Our MilkCoat - Matte™ doesn’t have any shine to it at all. It goes on milky white and dries clear without reflecting any light. This is made possible by a greater amount of flatting agents. (That’s the stuff that keeps the shine to a minimum.)

With the increase of these flatting agents, there is a slight decrease in durability. This is an industry-wide characteristic of all matte sheens, regardless of the brand. The more matte you make the finish, the lower the durability.

Now don’t be confused - our MilkCoat™ is very durable as a topcoat option. It’s simply that when you compare the durability of Matte sheens with Glossy sheens, the Glossy ones come out on top.

Make sense?

Matte finishes are also less clear than Glossy ones. There’s a slight reduction in the clarity due to all of the flatting agents. So, if you decide to opt for MilkCoat - Matte™, we don’t advise using it over Typewriter or Ink Blue (formally named Artissimo). The matting agents look a bit too cloudy, so go for Satin or Gloss instead. We also recommend testing it over other darker colors like Boxwood and Curio to make sure you like how it looks.

Satin/Low Shine

If you want a smidge of shine, then choose Satin. If you think about satin fabric, it catches the light here and there, but not as much as patent leather. It’s kind of the same thing with topcoats!

Satin is more durable than Matte. It’s the sheen we recommend for all of our colors, including the dark ones! So if you’re going to paint a dresser in Ink Blue, top it with MilkCoat - Satin™.

Gloss/High Shine

Our MilkCoat - Gloss™ is the most durable sheen in the bunch. As a matter of fact, you can do some pretty cool trickery with Gloss!

Let’s pretend that you want the durability of Gloss with the flat finish of Matte. You can apply a layer of MilkCoat - Gloss™ first. Let it dry. Then, apply a layer or two of MilkCoat - Matte™ . You have the durability of the Gloss as a base with the no shine finish you love on top!

Like we said, pretty cool trickery!

Comparing Matte, Satin And Gloss

Let’s see how each of these sheens look when they’re painted over MilkPaint™.

We painted Farmhouse White, Aviary and Typewriter on sample boards. Down the middle of this image, you’ll find the colors with no topcoat or finish on them at all. They’re essentially raw.

On the left, you can see what the color looks like with MilkCoat - Gloss™. (Notice how it doesn’t cause Farmhouse White to yellow!)

On the far right, you can see the Matte option.

We did our best to try to catch the light and have it bounce off our samples in just the right way, so these images may not fully represent what the sheens would look like in real life.

That’s why we recommend testing your color and sheen option on a scrap before you do it on your “good” project.

MilkCoat™ Has A Gel Consistency

The biggest difference between MilkCoat™ and its predecessor (Tough Coat) is the fact that it’s a gel as opposed to a liquid.

This gel consistency gives you more control over the product. It won’t drip down vertical surfaces like table legs or spindles. It’s less prone to puddling in corners because it stays in place once you spread it around.

It’s kind of like sealing a table with maple syrup as opposed to Jello pudding.

(Are you hungry now?)

Because MilkCoat™ is a gel, it has less water. Less water means that it dries faster. So when you’re applying your MilkCoat™, make sure your applicator is damp. Have a little bowl of water handy so you can dip your brush, foam applicator, shop towel or sponge in as you work.

We also recommend working out of a separate container. This will prevent you from contaminating your main jar of MilkCoat™.

Dry And Cure Time For MilkCoat™

• MilkCoat™ dries to the touch in about 2-4 hours. The hotter and dryer it is, the quicker your dry time will be. The colder and more damp/humid it is, the slower your dry time will be. (Dry time is how long it takes before you can touch the surface without the product coming off on your hands.)

• You can begin using your project gently within 48-72 hours.

• MilkCoat™’s full cure time is 30 days. (Cure time is how long it takes for the product to be completely set up and at the manufacturer’s stated durability level.)

Extra MilkCoat™ Tidbits

What happens if you put olive oil and water in a jar and shake it up? They separate, right? That’s because oil and water don’t mix.

The same concept applies with our water and oil based finishes. We don’t recommend using MilkOil™ with MilkCoat™ because they’re incompatible.

You know what you CAN put over top of MilkCoat™? MilkPaint™! Paint a layer of MilkCoat™ in between each layer of your MilkPaint™ to create a gorgeous layered effect.

Just like the rest of our products, the possibilities truly are endless with MilkCoat™!